Visiting il Colosseo: the Colosseum

For me, the Colosseum is by far the most impressive sight in Rome. There's something utterly beguiling about it.

Initially, this is because it's so unlike any other structure. Even innovative architecture of differing styles usually looks like something we're familiar with; not so with the Colosseum. Its shape, height and construction are something entirely new to me.

It dominates the skyline on its side of the city, its footprint covers 6 acres and its walls stand 160 ft high. Concrete and the use of arches (blind and true) allowed the ancient Romans to build something unlike anything that went before and, really, unlike anything left standing from later periods.

It's bewitching. In the early morning it's blue, turning to rich gold as the sun rises. In the heat of the day it's bleached white, but by evening it's warm and pink. At night, grey stone arches are lit orange from within.

I couldn't keep my eyes off it. I'd look at it every morning and evening and walk around it every night after dinner.

I could barely think of anything else. In fact, the more I thought about the Colosseum, the taller it grew and the wider it expanded in my mind.

Most fundamentally, there's no getting over the age of this building. Completed in 80 CE, the Colosseum has been standing for almost 2,000 years. Its presence in our lives today feels precarious, and it's mind-bending to consider the history its walls have seen and survived.

If you ever manage to get your head around the age of the Colosseum (I haven't), consider the striking themes that its construction, use and preservation bring to life.

The Colosseum was built by enslaved people and it's therefore a legacy of an abhorrent practice before you even get to considering what happened inside its walls. Enslavement and its lasting presence throughout human history (including in the present day) is one of the few things that makes me absolutely convinced that humans are inherently and irreparably bad. What kind of a soul could conceive of something as cruel as enslavement?

Like any aspect of our history, there's debate as to exactly what happened. The use of enslaved labour is uncontested. Many think the Colosseum was built by enslaved Jewish people. The Romans fought Israelites after the Israelites refused to worship Roman emperors as gods. When the Romans were victorious, they destroyed Jerusalem's temple, enslaved 50,000 Jewish people and brought them to Rome. The enslaved people were forced to build the Arch of Titus (which stands in the Roman Forum across the road from the Colosseum), which depicts inside its arch the plundering of Jewish artefacts by the Romans. It's widely believed that enslaved Jewish people built the Colosseum, although some say there isn't clear evidence of this.

Either way, this incredible structure was built by enslaved and abused people.

Speaking of enslaved and abused people, although there were some cases of freedmen, free men and even emperors acting as gladiators (although in the case of the last, without any real risk of harm), gladiators were mostly prisoners of war or enslaved people and subjected to deadly fights against their will.

The shows in the Colosseum included fights to the death, either against other people or wild animals. The brutality is difficult to get your head around.

The Colosseum was built in the grounds of Emperor Nero's palace and outside the Colosseum used to stand a 100 ft tall statue of Nero. Ego and control of the populace are themes that swim around the ghost of the Emperor's pool drained to build the Colosseum.

Entry to the Colosseum was free, but this was no philanthropic act. The Colosseum shows served to reinforce the strict hierarchy of Roman society. The tiered seating was occupied by social class: nearest to the action were emperors, the Vestal Virgins and other important people. Above were those of noble birth, followed by the plebs. Right at the top were those of lowest social status, the most abused and disrespected in Roman society: enslaved people, foreigners, and women. Nationalism, racism, and misogyny are added to the big themes swirling around the Colosseum.

On the subject of misogyny: the Vestal Virgins. The only women allowed to occupy seats that didn't come with a risk of nosebleeds were the Vestal Virgins tasked with keeping the eternal flame alight in the Temple of Vesta (part of which still stands in the Roman Forum). The Vestal Virgins were chosen before they reached the age of 10 to tend the fire and remain celibate for at least 30 years. While they were virgins they were revered, but if they were thought to no longer be a virgin they were buried alive.

It's hard to comprehend a person and society that would take a woman down into a crypt and seal her in there to die, but the harms that continue to be perpetrated against women today suggest that the misogyny of ancient Rome is no mere ghost, but as real in today's world as the remaining pillars of the Temple of Vesta.

The remaining pillars of the Temple of Vesta

So much of our history and culture today rests on or has roots in ancient Roman life. I studied Roman law at university, a legal system on which the English common law system is based. The principles of law that existed during the Roman Republic and Empire still underpin much of our jurisprudence today. Ancient Rome was filled with architectural marvels. The entry and exit systems of the Colosseum are mirrored in our stadiums today. Aqueducts and clean water for all via public fountains was revolutionary in supporting a strong population.

Mixed in with these echoes are the strong, difficult themes stirred up by the Colosseum's hulking figure: enslavement, brutality, violence, misogyny, social hierarchy, inequality, ego, war, and the destruction of nature.

We took some of the good from ancient Rome, but how much of the bad still clings to our societies like pollution dirties the walls of the Colosseum?

Practicalities

Near the Colosseum is the perfect place to stay in Rome; you can explore the Colosseum, Roman Forum, Palatine Hill, Capitoline Hill, Victor Emmanuel Monument, Imperial Forum and, if you're happy walking, even the Vatican Museums, St Peter's, Pantheon, Trevi Fountain and Spanish steps by foot or a short Metro journey.

It's incredible to have a view of the Colosseum. We stayed at the Mercure Roman Colosseum Centre hotel, which is pricey but has unforgettable views from some of its rooms and the roof terrace (this isn't an ad).

The Colosseum can, and should, be appreciated from the public roads outside and at different times of day.

For a look inside, book weeks in advance. You'll get a time slot to enter the Colosseum and can use the rest of the day to explore the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill (entrance on the same ticket).

Put some time aside during or after your trip for grappling with the history and emotion raised by the arches of the Colosseum.

Get a good guidebook. I enjoyed Rick Steves' and he has a great free audio tour of the Colosseum (this isn't an ad).

If you're visiting Rome, read about visiting the Roman Forum, Palatine Hill (both next door to the Colosseum) and the Vatican Museums (a short Metro journey away).